Matt and Truth Trip Across Italy

Technically, Matt is my sister’s husband’s sister’s husband. So. You can see why we refer to Matt and his wife Truth as “cousins”. They are fine, misplaced Iowa relatives who, like us, heard the cry of Go East, Young Iowans, Go East.

From top right Italy to bottom left Italy. They did it all. And did it their way.
Matt and Truth and their two sons, started in Venice then went to the opposite side of the peninsula to see the tower leaning in Pisa, siesta’ed in Siena (staying at the country estate of Spanocchia) and then drifted south checking off Panicale, Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. Finally arriving somewhat in lower left Italy – at the Greek ruins of wonderful, evocative Paestum. All during school vacation. ONE school vacation. From the look of the pictures, and their great stories, they did it very well indeed.

I’m in trembling awe of all they saw and did. With kids in tow. Be very afraid. Warning lights would be going off all over for me. Too many things to do! Too little time! Too kids! But their guys Max and Oliver are calm, cool and collected. Our “cousins” way of doing this epic trip just made me realize that . . . I must just be The Lazy Traveler.

They were in “our neck of the woods” of Panicale for just one day. And they just dived in there too. By the time they left they had seen some sights, sampled two of our favorite restaurants, enjoyed Aldo’s fine coffee and his summertime gelatis.


COUPLE TOURISTS GET CLIPPED IN ITALY
AND both the boys got their haircut by “my” barber, Biano. Oh, Biano, Biano where are you when I need you? You do not want to know how long my hair is now. It is like it was when I was in college. Terrible bother and I’m just being silly and obsessive — but I’m holding firm in my resolution to wait for Biano to take a whack at the bramble I’e allowed to grow up since I was last there in Italy. (18 days to go, Biano. 18 days.) The boys said they had never had such a work-over. They got the full treatment: wash, rinse, head massage and consultation on esoteric subjects such as: the length of sideburns relative to facial bone structure. Whoa. We are so not at the Maine Mall anymore, guys. So long and thanks for all the photos!

Twilight in the garden

It is the little things we often remember. This is one of those moments the Wiley Traveler has captured. She was walking with friends to Ulrich’s house when she caught a glimpse of him through his wisteria. Deep in a book, enjoying the last of the sun, the moment before he heard their approaching footsteps on his path.

After gathering a hungry gang there on Ulrich’s terrace, they all went out for a food moment. Wiley says that was memorable too. The diners and their conversation were very multi-national, but the pastas and pizzas were evidently 100 percent classic Italian.

Wiley knows the rest of us are chaffing at the bit to join her there. And still counting the days. 22! So, in the meantime, she tortures us with tales of torrellini we can’t quite touch? She has got a headstart on us, but we will be there and making up for lost time – PRESTO.

The next time we meet on this page we hope to have pictures of Italy from Venice to Pompeii. By our cousins Matt and Truth from just down the street here in Maine. They stayed one whirlwind night with Wiley, in Panicale, in the middle of their very photogenic Trip Across Italy. You’ll see. Stay tuned.

See you in Italy,

Stew

Pane e vino Vino e pane

This is an interesting book, seventy years old but there are parts of it that seem to be talking about where we are today. A classic Italian story from WW2. By Ignazio Silone who was born Secondo Tranquilli but had to write under a pen name to keep out of the clutches of the Fascists. My copy is the 1962 re-edited version of the 1935 original. It is an anti war book in a sense, certainly a book that refuses to glorify or glamorize war. It shows the futility of blindly and illogically following the crowd whether politically, religiously, or any other way. Considering Silone himself was in exile for years and that the Fascists beat and tortured his brother to death, this was a calm, considered book. Maybe a bit bleak, but not totally hopeless. Close. But he made his points.

Here’s the general plot: The protagonist, Pietro Spina has lost his faith in religion and has become a sought after Communist fugitive. Like the author, he is in exile, but the main character of the book risks it all and comes back to work in the underground resistance. After almost dieing from the rigors of his clandestine re-entry into the country, Pietro hides in plain sight as Don Paulo Spada, a cranky priest recovering from a serious illness. I liked the Robbing Pietro to Pay Paulo first names he chose for his main character. And the last names too. The radical politician was a mere rose spine (Spina) while the small town priest was a more war-like sword (Spada). The book goes along in a complicated, what-the-heck-is-going-on vein for a while. To me anyway. And I will admit, I set it aside as preachy and political, several times. But yesterday, I read the last chapters and found it all came together in a well thought out way.

Here’s what motivated me to pick up the thread and follow it to the ending: I was working in the yard when our friend Gail stopped to invite us to dinner. She and Midge are directors of Spannocchia the non profit estate outside Siena. “It is just a We Love Italy Dinner” she said. “Pot luck”. I asked what we could bring. Knowing we’ve been a bit under the weather (all better now, thanks) she evidently took pity on us and gave us The Easy Out. “Bread” she said “and maybe wine”. I knew what she meant. But I also knew I had to finish the book. I had to bring her wine and bread and “Bread and Wine”.

Wiley has arrived.

I’m 31 days and counting,

See you in Italy,

Stew

Yes, The Wiley Traveler has Landed

Finally! A Vreeland is in residence there in Italy. In our Home Sweet Home away from Home. The Wiley Travel flew into Rome Thursday after a couple fun filled weeks in London. And drove straight to Panicale. All business now! She found our house “almost” ready for company.

PANICALE, Umbria, Italy— Finally! A Vreeland is in residence there in Italy. In our Home Sweet Home away from Home. Wiley Vreeland aka: The Wiley Travel flew into Rome Thursday after a couple fun filled weeks in London. And drove straight to Panicale. All business now! She found our house “almost” ready for company. Said it went something like this: Buckets, mops, cleaning products everywhere. Beds stripped. Rugs airing over balconies. Oh there you are, Anna. I thought you knew I was coming? Well, I only ask because . . . you know how we said we had company coming? When? RRRRRRRRRing. That would be the doorbell.

So, that worked out.

And a friend from California, who has a place down the block, just got off the train from Venice. She and Wiley have catching up to do immediately. So, The Wiley Traveler will be A Busy Traveler, immediately. She has her car organized, cell phone powered up and working. Now she is scurrying around getting email and computer hooked up, and up and down the streets of Panicale she is reconnecting with all our many Italian friends in town, too.

She has many, many new places to see on her list and is looking forward to all of the adventures that entails. She and Paulette are hoping to see a new property in San Casciano dei Bagni right away. Paulette says the town is totally A List, with her. We just reviewed the book A Thousand Days in Tuscany set in that very town. Feel like I have been there already. More news on that as it becomes available.

STILL COUNTING THE DAYS: 33

Our trip to Italy is shaping up well too. Midge and I would be there now, but we need to wait for our other daughter to get back from the jungles of Costa Rica. When she does get back, sea turtles and rain forest canopy both sufficiently protected, we are off like a shot. We are happy just knowing our friends, our Wiley and our home await us there in Italy.

We will let you know how it goes routing a trip to Italy through Holland. Several people we know have made connections to Italy via KLM lately, but we had not done that yet, so this is all new for us.

Wait a minute! Wiley! How DOES our garden grow?

TRAVEL NOTICE: FLORENCE AIRPORT HAS REOPENED!

Happy news. The Florence Airport has reopened after extensive renovations. A month EARLY! What about the dolce far niente work ethic Italy is so famous for? Obviously a total myth and fabrication.

FLORENCE/FIRENZE, Italy— Happy news. The Florence Airport has reopened after extensive renovations. A month EARLY! What about the dolce far niente work ethic Italy is so famous for? Obviously a total myth and fabrication. This is great travel news. Check out an official-looking press release about the REOPENING of the Florence Airport

Ah, Florence. Our Favorite Airport.
Our entry point of choice to all of Italy so we are thrilled to have you back. And to think I didn’t trust that you would make your deadline of May 1. So, I booked all our end of May flights through Rome. Oh Me of Little Faith. Sigh. Next time!